soxfan143 Full-Race build-07 Civic Si

[soxfan143]

Well guys, the time has come for me to become a big boy. I'm not doing a complete Full-Race kit just yet but I will be running the heart and soul of a Full-race kit....The manifold and downpipe. The FMIC will be coming in the spring. Here are some pics of a REAL manifold. I will update the thread as the build progresses. Thanks Aaron and Geoff. You guys are awesome!!!

Updated pics. Manifold with 2200* HPC coating. :dancing:












Here's the motor naked.



Here's just the mani in there looking bad ass.


This bolt is a ***** to get on because of how tight it is to the runner. You will need to start the bolt with the mani pulled out a bit.

And here is the turbo on the mani. I only got this far today.

Well guys the stuff is all in except the ID 1000s. I didn't feel like possibly having drivability issues due to increased pressure and not knowing exactly what my pressure is at this time. I'm going to install a Hybrid Racing rail with a pressure gauge so I know what's going on.

For now here are the install pics and some pics of me and Scott recircing the dump. Came out awesome. I did all the prep work and install he did all the welding. We also made a custom 3" intake tube that I didn't get any pics of because I was beat and just wanted to get it in and running.


Here's the downpipe cut open to allow the dump to be welded on.



Here's the dump cut and shaped by me on the belt sander.



Here's the dump installed and mocked up for tack welding.



Here it is tacked and ready for welding.


And the finished product



Here's the bay and the intake as best as I can get it.

[blueroadster]

Looks really sharp...Nice job.

In reference to the recirculated dumptube, did you consider installing a flex bellow? What wastegate spring did you go with? Any turbo upgrade plans (I ask because depending on what you plan to run, you could very well run into fitment issues)?

[soxfan143]

Looks really sharp...Nice job.

In reference to the recirculated dumptube, did you consider installing a flex bellow? What wastegate spring did you go with? Any turbo upgrade plans (I ask because depending on what you plan to run, you could very well run into fitment issues)?

Yes I did consider the flex but the tube isn't long enough to fit one. I'm running a 7psi spring but I should drop to a 5psi spring for the Hondata boost control system to be more accurate and easy to adjust. I've been working closely with Derek from Hondata trying to figure out some small quirks with the new boost control system. It's been very inconsistent with it's control. And I already talked to Geoff about future fitment issues and he said as long as I stick with the Garrett GT series turbos I'll be just fine. The GT30 or 35Rs will all bolt up without any fitment issues. But honestly, this turbo is making serious power as is at only 10psi and a street tune. I made 386whp and 339wtq on my buds e-dyno. Which has been within 5whp of a few different real dynos on numerous occasions. I plan on running 16-20psi when I get tuned on March 1. Or whatever psi makes me 425-450whp. And the GT2871R turbo isn't in it's efficiency range until you're at 16psi+ anyway.

[blueroadster]

Cool...I'm using the FP HTA GT3076R. Externally, it is the same size as the standard GT3076R however, the HTA uses the larger (i.e., GT35R) compressor housing. As a result, if you are planning to use the same turbo as mine or the GT35R, you'll most definately run into fitment issues with the compressor side. You'll end up needing to use a spacer between the manifold and turbo assembly as well as having to modify the outlet on the compressor housing itself. I can send you some PICs if you'd like to see. Geoff is actually modifying my housing to resolve the larger compressor side clearance issue (i.e., cutting the outlet and welding on a 90 degree elbow).

[soxfan143]

Cool...I'm using the FP HTA GT3076R. Externally, it is the same size as the standard GT3076R however, the HTA uses the larger (i.e., GT35R) compressor housing. As a result, if you are planning to use the same turbo as mine or the GT35R, you'll most definately run into fitment issues with the compressor side. You'll end up needing to use a spacer between the manifold and turbo assembly as well as having to modify the outlet on the compressor housing itself. I can send you some PICs if you'd like to see. Geoff is actually modifying my housing to resolve the larger compressor side clearance issue (i.e., cutting the outlet and welding on a 90 degree elbow).

Hell yea. I love seeing build pics of anything boost. Especially Full-Race gear. Post them up or just email me or something. Hey are you going to be using the Hondata Boost control? If you are PM me and I will fill you in on what me and Derek have come up with for better control.

[blueroadster]

I'll dig up the PICs and send them to you tomorrow.

As for the boost controller, yea I switched to the Hondata one. This thread shows PICs of where I installed it. The vacuum source for the controller and wastegate bottom are sourced directly from the original PCV hose connection point on the intake manifold. The vacuum source for the FPR, BOV, etc. is via a tap into the brake booster hose. My ears are open if you have a better alternative to suggest.

[soxfan143]

I'll dig up the PICs and send them to you tomorrow.

As for the boost controller, yea I switched to the Hondata one. This thread shows PICs of where I installed it. The vacuum source for the controller and wastegate bottom are sourced directly from the original PCV hose connection point on the intake manifold. The vacuum source for the FPR, BOV, etc. is via a tap into the brake booster hose. My ears are open if you have a better alternative to suggest.

That's exactly how I did it. lol..What spring are you using? Derek recommends using a smaller spring like a 4-5psi and set the frequency on the solenoid to 80 Hz or even higher. I'm running the max 100 Hz. I also had to install a "pill" type thing in the vacuum line that runs to the top of the gate. Similar to the part that the Subaru guys are using to keep boost stable. It helps raise the duty cycle even more. I didn't put it in the correct spot but I'm moving it to before the solenoid tomorrow. The reason why is you have to get the solenoids duty cycle to ~50% for the best control. If it's too low the boost will be inconsistent and small changes to the duty cycle will result in too large a pis change. So if you are planning on running low boost levels use a really small spring but if you plan on running 15psi+ the 7psi spring should be ok. Right now at 10psi my BC duty is at 33%. It's working much better now that I sourced boost at the manifolds PCV port. Before it was changing by 3-4psi randomly. This was all recommended by Derek from Hondata. I'm basically the Beta tester for the boost control. I talk directly with him. If you have any questions or suggestions let me know and I will relay them to him. Ok? My next suggestion is a fuel and timing compensation by gear. So when in the higher gears it won't go pig rich or knock. Have you noticed that in 4th gear and higher that your AFRs go super rich in open loop or in boost? That needs a compensation table. I'm gonna email him tomorrow with that suggestion.

[blueroadster]

FR usually supplies the 1.0 bar spring for the wastegate. I downgraded to the .5 bar spring and plan to run low boost in 1st and 2nd gears, probably 15 in third, and 20+ in the upper gears.

Thanks for the tip on possibly needing to use a pill. They are used in my RX-7 and I had forgotten about them.

My car will be tuned by Evans next Friday and we're currently in the process of checking and double checking everything to make sure it's good to go.

[soxfan143]

I'm using the .5 bar too and Hondata wanted me to lower the spring. So relay the boost control info I gave you to Jeff. Make sure he uses minimum of 80 Hz on the frequency value in the boost control parameter.

[wildabeast]

ok, question, why wouldnt you use the 80hz (max) frequency value? seems like the higher the frequency, the more accurate.

Am I missing something here?

[soxfan143]

ok, question, why wouldnt you use the 80hz (max) frequency value? seems like the higher the frequency, the more accurate.

Am I missing something here?

Max frequency is 100 Hz. Which is what I'm using. 80 Hz is basically the minimum you can use depending on what spring you're using and what type of wastegate you have. It also depends on the solenoid you are using. A larger solenoid like the Hondata requires a much higher frequency setting while a smaller one like the GM solenoid will require a lower setting. The frequencies I'm suggesting are for use with the Hondata solenoid. So any other solenoid will require testing.

[wildabeast]

oh, so its based on the solenoid. ok, I gotcha

[soxfan143]

oh, so its based on the solenoid. ok, I gotcha

Yes sir. Every solenoid will require a different frequency setting.

[wildabeast]

man.... the recirc'd dump tube is sexy... i kinda wanna do that to my setup when i go 3" exhaust

[soxfan143]

I made 402whp and 328tq at 15psi. The turbo was out of gas up top and no matter what we did for boost pressure it didn't make any more power. Here's the sheet and boost plot. Boy is 400whp fun. The 328tq is REALLY fun at 5K rpm. Lol..

[rcracin]

Nice numbers. Gotta love torque.

[k20Whine]

time for a bigger disco potato

[blueroadster]

FYI...The frequency for the hondata solenoid on my car was set at 20 Hz in FlashPro. Seems rock solid.

[soxfan143]

Yea. I found that frequency works best also. I was given wrong info by Hondata themselves, I found out that 20Hz is the perfect frequency.

[supaninja]

20hz for this guy too